A vivid memory from my cross-country bike ride (yes, it's an excerpt from the book):
It was getting late on my fourth
day out, and I’d stopped at a gas station called “Wheelie’s 76” in Palo Verde,
California. I’d just inhaled a
S’mores-flavored energy bar, a Milky Way, a banana nut muffin the size of my
fist, a pint of chocolate milk, and a one-liter bottle of fruit punch
Gatorade. I didn’t know it yet, but
some version of this obscene caloric intake was going to become a typical
midday meal for me, and even though an hour after consuming it I’d be hungry
again, those first few post-snack minutes always left me sated and, sometimes,
a little woozy. That I was
standing in the heat and the wind didn’t help.
As I walked to the bathroom behind the building, I could hear the liquid
sloshing around in my stomach, and I could picture little chunks of muffin
floating in a sea of brownish-red fluid—or whatever color chocolate milk and
red Gatorade make when mixed.
This soupy mixture lurched as the
stench from the bathroom hit me. The
best I can say about that space was that it was almost big enough to
accommodate the pile of sanitary pads and dirty diapers on the floor by the
garbage can, the half-eaten burrito by the sink, and the used clumps of toilet
paper that fell a little to the right of the toilet itself. I breathed through my mouth as I swiped a
fresh coating of Chamois Glide over my saddle sores and reapplied sunscreen
over the exposed parts of my legs, arms, and face. I got out of there as fast as I could and was just about to roll
back onto the road when my phone chirped.
It was a five-word text message from my buddy Jerry in Chicago: Dude,
Dennis Hopper just died.
Flashback to me as a kid, circa
1979. I was in the sixth grade, and
every day after school I’d be spread out on the gold shag carpet in our living
room, the television tuned to Channel 7 for The3:30 Movie. There was a different
theme each week, but I only remember two:
“Animals Amok!” (Frogs, Night of the Lepus, Food of the Gods) and “Jack Nicholson.” On the last day of Nicholson week, they showed Easy Rider, and even though it was
edited for television—ridiculously
edited, I’d find out years later—I was immediately caught up in the story of
Billy the Kid and Captain America and their idea to just drop out and hit the
open road.
It was beyond me then to pick up on
any cautionary messages about the hazards of that open road or the complexities
of freedom; I didn’t dwell too long on the image of both men dead alongside
their burning motorcycles, and I’d completely missed Peter Fonda’s line, “We
blew it.” At that point in my life and
for many years after, I absorbed road stories through a filter that blocked out
everything except that thrill of doing your own thing and to hell with what
anyone else thought. I watched the
scene where Hopper, Fonda, and Nicholson get harassed by the anti-hippie guys
in the restaurant, and I let myself believe it was a reflection of my own life,
where I saw The Man hard at work bringing me down at school, at church, and at
home. Spelling tests and phonics
workbooks. Report cards and
parent-teacher conferences. Dressing up
on Sundays. Chores. The monotony of my parents’ lives and jobs. Dad to work at seven. Dad home at five. Dinner at six. Hey, what’s your dad do, anyway? I dunno.
Goes to an office. Weekend
chores. Two weeks’ summer vacation
spent on another driving trip to New York to see the same relatives and
friends. Rinse and repeat.
All those rules and all that
regularity weren’t for me. On the road
was where things were happening. As
long as I stayed out of the South and away from guys with shotguns in pickup
trucks, I’d be fine.
So I began hitting that open
road. Of course, it wasn’t on a
motorcycle; it was on the banana seat of my metallic orange AMF Roadmaster
Renegade. And by “road” I mean sidewalk,
and by “open” I mean carefully bordered by trim lawns and little fences made of
white plastic posts connected by white plastic chains. I would have liked a helmet with the stars
and stripes on it like in the movie—it seemed wrong even though I couldn’t say
why—but they weren’t for sale in my suburb.
The best I could do was my plastic Chicago Bears helmet. Back then kids didn’t wear helmets at all,
so after a few taunts from some older kids on the other side of our townhouse
development, I tossed it back in the basement.
None of that dampened my enthusiasm or the guitar riffs of “Born to Be
Wild” that I felt in my chest.
I brought the road inside,
too. In one of my comic books, there
was an ad for posters. Farrah Fawcett
in that orange swimsuit, John Travolta in his white disco finery, Bruce Lee and
his bare chest. They were the big
sellers, and they sat atop a few columns of tiny typeface. And there, hiding in that small print, were
the words Easy Rider. I talked my mom
into writing a check for me, and six-to-eight weeks later I was standing on my
bed and thumbtacking into the wall a full-color image of Fonda and Hopper
tooling down the road. If my parents
had known a little more about movies, or about 1960s drug culture, or about my
growing restlessness with the predictability of our normal lives, they would
have been upset about much more than the holes in the unblemished tan wall,
which is what my dad yelled about when he got home from work.
I’d lie on my bed and stare at
those two on their bikes and imagine myself on that highway. Only maybe not on a motorcycle. Maybe in an old car. Or hitchhiking. And maybe not even a highway, exactly, but something like it,
where the whole point would be to roam the great unknown and have adventures
and not have to deal with ordinary, everyday bullshit. Thumbtack
holes? Gimme a break.
In the Wheelie’s 76
parking lot, the wind blew hot across my face, pulling me out of my
memory. As I read Jerry’s message again
and tried to come up with some suitable response, my right knee grew stiff
bracing myself against the dry gusts that had been pummeling me all day. The sugar I had ingested was starting to
congeal in my gut, and I took a long drink of water to wash the stickiness from
my mouth. I
put my phone away. Palo Verde didn’t
amount to much, but its geometric fields were green and lush and a welcome
change from the white desert that I’d just pedaled through. I had a little bit further to go to get to Blythe, a bigger town
on the Colorado River, which I would cross the next morning. I hoped that I’d have the energy to get
where I was headed.
I knew I should get back on the road, but I couldn’t move.
What was I doing out here?
Why wasn’t I back home with my sons, relaxing in front of the TV or
taking a walk or doing any of the things that normal people do? I was a forty-two-year-old man on his
bicycle. This wasn’t Easy Rider. How the hell did I get here?
The answer wasn’t simple.
Before I left, ten different friends would ask me why I was going, and
I’d have ten different answers. The one
that had the most traction was direct and simple: I want to see if I can do it. Many of these friends knew me for being politically active at
school, which meant fighting with the administration. They’d also seen me through chemotherapy. Locking onto a challenge like a
cross-country bike ride must have seemed to them like a natural extension of my
personality. But in my head I was a lot
less sure. Part of me was doing it
because cancer had made me feel weak, and I wanted to do something big that
would make me feel strong again. Part
of me wanted that big adventure that I’d dreamed about when I was younger. Yet another part of me was starting to
really understand the truth that our most precious resource—time—is
irreplaceable and constantly being spent, and once I got the idea of a
cross-country bike ride in my head, it was joined by a vivid and frightening
image: me, as an older man who’d passed
on the ride, thinking, I should’ve done
it.
And then part of me felt like I’d
had some solid ideas about who I was, but they turned out to be not as solid as
I thought, and what I needed was to find a new way to see myself, where I was, and how
I’d gotten there.
I held my phone and waited for something to come, but those five words seemed to say it all. Dude, Dennis Hopper just died...